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特写:掀起精品咖啡的面纱

来源: 南方日报网络版     时间: 2019年12月12日 01:23:26
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(  新)(华)(网)(北)(京)(6月)(22日)(新)(媒)(体)(专)(电)((记)(者)(刘)(伟)(李)(呐)()北)(京)(仲)(夏)(的)(一)(个)(午)(后)(。位)(于)(朝)(外)(SOHO的)(Hey Coffee咖)(啡)(店)(内)(,一)(节)(“常)(见)(咖)(啡)(制)(作)(方)(法)(”的)(课)(程)(吸)(引)(了)(十)(几)(位)(咖)(啡)(客)(,以)(及)(咖)(啡)(馆)(投)(资)(人)(。  “喝)(了)(10年)(的)(咖)(啡)(,这)(是)(我)(第)(一)(次)(直)(观)(地)(感)(受)(精)(品)(咖)(啡)(的)(制)(作)(过)(程)(,了)(解)(不)(同)(咖)(啡)(的)(风)(味)(。”27岁)(的)(苏)(筱)(说)(,每)(天)(一)(杯)(咖)(啡)(已)(是)(她)(的)(生)(活)(习)(惯)(。但)(对)(大)(多)(数)(中)(国)(人)(而)(言)(,喝)(咖)(啡)(还)(没)(有)(成)(为)(必)(需)(,他)(们)(也)(无)(法)(分)(辨)(咖)(啡)(的)(优)(劣)(。  咖)(啡)(,熟)(悉)(的)(陌)(生)(饮)(品)(  虽)(然)(1999年)(星)(巴)(克)(在)(中)(国)(开)(设)(了)(第)(一)(家)(咖)(啡)(店)(并)(得)(到)(迅)(速)(发)(展)(,中)(国)(各)(地)(也)(一)(度)(掀)(起)(了)(“毕)(业)(后)(开)(家)(咖)(啡)(店)(”的)(创)(业)(热)(潮)(,但)(速)(溶)(咖)(啡)(仍)(然)(是)(中)(国)(咖)(啡)(消)(费)(市)(场)(的)(主)(流)(产)(品)(。  Hey Coffee创)(始)(人)(曹)(境)(在)(咖)(啡)(课)(堂)(讲)(了)(一)(则)(趣)(事)(。一)(次)(,一)(个)(学)(员)(说)(自)(己)(只)(喝)(意)(式)(咖)(啡)(,曹)(境)(问)(是)(哪)(一)(种)(,她)(说)(是)(加)(了)(糖)(和)(伴)(侣)(的)(三)(合)(一)(。意)(式)(咖)(啡)(是)(使)(用)(意)(式)(咖)(啡)(机)(,高)(温)(高)(压)(萃)(取)(浓)(缩)(咖)(啡)(作)(为)(基)(底)(调)(制)(出)(来)(的)(系)(列)(咖)(啡)(  咖)(啡)(,这)(个)(外)(来)(的)(饮)(品)(,通)(过)(影)(视)(剧)(的)(无)(形)(渗)(透)(,以)(及)(现)(实)(中)(咖)(啡)(店)(的)(宣)(传)(,逐)(渐)(被)(国)(人)(所)(熟)(识)(。  然)(而)(,曹)(境)(却)(认)(为)(,咖)(啡)(在)(中)(国)(仍)(是)(“熟)(悉)(而)(陌)(生)(”的)(东)(西)(,多)(数)(人)(并)(不)(了)(解)(、不)(懂)(咖)(啡)(,甚)(至)(在)(认)(知)(上)(有)(不)(少)(误)(区)(。“有)(些)(客)(人)(把)(咖)(啡)(豆)(磨)(粉)(后)(用)(水)(冲)(,以)(为)(和)(速)(溶)(咖)(啡)(是)(一)(样)(的)(;有)(人)(拿)(着)(上)(好)(的)(咖)(啡)(豆)(,回)(家)(用)(锅)(直)(接)(煮)(咖)(啡)(豆)(。”曹)(境)(说)(,咖)(啡)(尚)(未)(真)(正)(走)(进)(中)(国)(普)(通)(百)(姓)(家)(。  咖)(啡)(,在)(中)(国)(的)(艰)(难)(“溶)(”入)(  上)(世)(纪)(,速)(溶)(咖)(啡)(和)(意)(大)(利)(浓)(缩)(咖)(啡)(分)(别)(引)(领)(了)(两)(次)(咖)(啡)(浪)(潮)(。随)(着)(消)(费)(者)(对)(咖)(啡)(味)(道)(和)(个)(性)(的)(追)(求)(,2000年)(以)(后)(,以)(优)(选)(咖)(啡)(豆)(和)(制)(作)(工)(艺)(著)(称)(的)(精)(品)(咖)(啡)(引)(领)(了)(第)(三)(次)(浪)(潮)(席)(卷)(全)(球)(。作)(为)(年)(均)(增)(速)(最)(快)(的)(咖)(啡)(消)(费)(市)(场)(,中)(国)(也)(受)(到)(了)(咖)(啡)(浪)(潮)(的)(影)(响)(。  曾)(任)(职)(中)(国)(最)(早)(的)(一)(批)(主)(打)(意)(式)(咖)(啡)(的)(连)(锁)(企)(业)(,曹)(境)(在)(咖)(啡)(行)(业)(浸)(淫)(13年)(,目)(睹)(了)(国)(人)(对)(咖)(啡)(从)(懵)(懂)(到)(逐)(渐)(认)(同)(的)(过)(程)(。她)(说)(:“很)(多)(人)(觉)(得)(,苦)(就)(是)(咖)(啡)(的)(味)(道)(。其)(实)(,根)(据)(产)(地)(、萃)(取)(方)(式)(等)(因)(素)(的)(不)(同)(,咖)(啡)(会)(呈)(现)(出)(酸)(味)(、花)(香)(、果)(香)(等)(不)(同)(味)(道)(。”曹)(境)(说)(。  根)(据)(国)(际)(咖)(啡)(协)(会)(的)(报)(告)(,中)(国)(咖)(啡)(消)(费)(逐)(年)(增)(加)(,过)(去)(10年)(增)(幅)(稳)(定)(在)(16%以)(上)(。不)(仅)(外)(国)(资)(本)(,国)(内)(大)(量)(资)(本)(也)(涌)(入)(咖)(啡)(行)(业)(,独)(立)(咖)(啡)(馆)(随)(之)(在)(一)(些)(主)(要)(城)(市)(纷)(纷)(开)(张)(。但)(由)(于)(消)(费)(环)(境)(不)(够)(成)(熟)(,很)(多)(咖)(啡)(馆)(没)(有)(足)(够)(的)(技)(术)(积)(累)(和)(运)(营)(经)(验)(,加)(之)(国)(外)(连)(锁)(咖)(啡)(品)(牌)(的)(冲)(击)(和)(挤)(压)(,倒)(闭)(潮)(很)(快)(席)(卷)(了)(整)(个)(行)(业)(。  北)(京)(铂)(澜)(咖)(啡)(学)(院)(的)(创)(始)(人)(齐)(鸣)(,2006年)(进)(入)(咖)(啡)(行)(业)(,之)(后)(的)(5年)(内)(连)(续)(开)(了)(多)(家)(咖)(啡)(馆)(。但)(由)(于)(亏)(损)(,这)(些)(店)(均)(已)(倒)(闭)(或)(转)(让)(。  “星)(巴)(克)(可)(能)(直)(接)(导)(致)(了)(不)(少)(独)(立)(咖)(啡)(馆)(的)(关)(张)(。”但)(宏)(观)(地)(看)(,齐)(鸣)(说)(:“星)(巴)(克)(的)(拓)(展)(其)(实)(是)(在)(培)(养)(这)(个)(行)(业)(。我)(们)(没)(有)(足)(够)(的)(资)(金)(做)(咖)(啡)(文)(化)(的)(推)(广)(,而)(咖)(啡)(连)(锁)(企)(业)(的)(一)(个)(举)(措)(就)(可)(能)(引)(起)(社)(会)(关)(注)(。”  纵)(观)(中)(国)(市)(场)(,动)(辄)(几)(十)(元)(一)(杯)(的)(意)(式)(咖)(啡)(,似)(乎)(把)(普)(通)(的)(咖)(啡)(客)(挡)(在)(了)(咖)(啡)(馆)(外)(。当)(海)(归)(、白)(领)(在)(门)(店)(排)(队)(时)(,更)(多)(的)(消)(费)(者)(仍)(然)(选)(择)(30几)(元)(一)(大)(盒)(的)(袋)(装)(速)(溶)(咖)(啡)(。2015年)(,国)(际)(咖)(啡)(组)(织)(英)(国)(欧)(睿)(信)(息)(咨)(询)(公)(司)((Euromonitor)预)(估)(速)(溶)(咖)(啡)(占)(中)(国)(咖)(啡)(市)(场)(零)(售)(市)(场)(份)(额)(的)(99%。  曹)(境)(说)(,这)(与)(欧)(美)(、日)(本)(等)(咖)(啡)(消)(费)(大)(国)(形)(成)(了)(强)(烈)(对)(比)(。这)(些)(市)(场)(的)(消)(费)(者)(往)(往)(选)(择)(商)(业)(咖)(啡)(或)(者)(单)(品)(咖)(啡)(,速)(溶)(咖)(啡)(只)(占)(很)(小)(的)(比)(例)(。  做)(一)(杯)(好)(咖)(啡)(并)(不)(难)(  2014年)(,星)(巴)(克)(在)(中)(国)(开)(设)(了)(臻)(选)(店)(,用)(世)(界)(知)(名)(产)(地)(的)(咖)(啡)(豆)(为)(消)(费)(者)(带)(来)(精)(品)(咖)(啡)(。今)(年)(5月)(,星)(巴)(克)(宣)(布)(将)(其)(海)(外)(市)(场)(首)(家)(星)(巴)(克)(咖)(啡)(烘)(焙)(工)(坊)(及)(臻)(选)(品)(鉴)(馆)(落)(户)(上)(海)(,2017年)(底)(开)(门)(迎)(客)(。  齐)(鸣)(说)(,星)(巴)(克)(此)(举)(反)(映)(了)(精)(品)(咖)(啡)(方)(兴)(未)(艾)(,其)(最)(大)(的)(推)(动)(力)(还)(是)(中)(国)(咖)(啡)(客)(多)(元)(的)(咖)(啡)(消)(费)(需)(求)(。  为)(了)(让)(消)(费)(者)(更)(好)(地)(认)(识)(咖)(啡)(、学)(习)(有)(关)(咖)(啡)(的)(知)(识)(、便)(捷)(地)(买)(到)(合)(适)(的)(咖)(啡)(器)(具)(,曹)(境)(在)(2015年)(开)(了)(Hey Coffee咖)(啡)(便)(利)(店)(。  “我)(就)(是)(想)(揭)(开)(精)(品)(咖)(啡)(的)(神)(秘)(面)(纱)(,让)(喝)(到)(一)(杯)(好)(咖)(啡)(变)(得)(简)(单)(容)(易)(。”曹)(境)(说)(。  曹)(境)(开)(设)(的)(咖)(啡)(课)(堂)(包)(含)(了)(“从)(种)(子)(到)(杯)(子)(的)(过)(程)(”“常)(见)(咖)(啡)(制)(作)(方)(法)(”“意)(式)(咖)(啡)(和)(单)(品)(咖)(啡)(的)(区)(别)(”“论)(研)(磨)(度)(的)(重)(要)(性)(”等)(多)(方)(面)(的)(课)(程)(,单)(次)(课)(的)(费)(用)(是)(68元)(。  曹)(境)(说)(:“做)(一)(杯)(好)(咖)(啡)(并)(不)(难)(,只)(要)(将)(新)(鲜)(、优)(质)(的)(咖)(啡)(豆)(研)(磨)(成)(粉)(,并)(注)(意)(粉)(水)(比)(合)(适)(,水)(温)(合)(适)(,就)(成)(了)(。”  第)(一)(次)(来)(听)(课)(的)(80后)(设)(计)(师)(鹿)(鸣)(决)(定)(告)(别)(速)(溶)(咖)(啡)(。他)(说)(:“我)(买)(了)(一)(个)(法)(压)(壶)(,想)(亲)(自)(动)(手)(体)(验)(一)(下)(制)(作)(咖)(啡)(的)(乐)(趣)(。”  对)(于)(精)(品)(咖)(啡)(的)(启)(蒙)(,当)(然)(不)(只)(局)(限)(于)(兴)(趣)(班)(,铂)(澜)(咖)(啡)(学)(院)(常)(年)(开)(设)(了)(咖)(啡)(师)(、咖)(啡)(品)(鉴)(师)(的)(培)(训)(课)(程)(,为)(那)(些)(希)(望)(学)(到)(专)(业)(咖)(啡)(技)(能)(的)(学)(员)(敞)(开)(大)(门)(,仅)(去)(年)(一)(年)(,参)(加)(铂)(澜)(咖)(啡)(学)(院)(的)(培)(训)(人)(数)(就)(达)(到)(了)(3000人)(次)(。  曹)(境)(认)(为)(,咖)(啡)(在)(中)(国)(仍)(属)(于)(小)(众)(产)(业)(,相)(关)(的)(专)(业)(人)(才)(极)(为)(缺)(乏)(,普)(及)(咖)(啡)(文)(化)(,让)(更)(多)(的)(人)(爱)(上)(咖)(啡)(是)(一)(件)(难)(度)(不)(小)(,又)(亟)(待)(去)(做)(的)(事)(情)(。  2016年)(底)(,铂)(澜)(咖)(啡)(学)(院)(将)(在)(北)(京)(开)(设)(一)(个)(1000平)(米)(的)(深)(度)(咖)(啡)(体)(验)(店)(,把)(咖)(啡)(培)(训)(与)(咖)(啡)(店)(融)(合)(在)(一)(起)(。“希)(望)(这)(个)(店)(可)(以)(让)(咖)(啡)(更)(好)(地)(走)(进)(大)(众)(生)(活)(,重)(新)(定)(义)(咖)(啡)(在)(中)(国)(人)(心)(中)(的)(位)(置)(。”齐)(鸣)(说)(。  作)(者)(:刘)(伟)(李)(呐)(来)(源)(新)(华)(社)()
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